Creativity is Key

Artwork created to be loved

Ventilation valve

Ventilation valves were created for COVID, to supply maximum airflow.


Padded leather chair

Padded leather chair created for a modern style bar. The seat is low but provides support for whoever is seating on this. 


Stove BBQ Box

Very quick BBQ box created for a 55 minute design competition.  

Storage Box

Modern style storage box that can be used to storage away small item. This box would be best suited next to the 3D printer for quick access to the tools.


Generative Design Lamp

Funky lamp designed with fusion 360 using their generative design tool. The top bar which holds the bulb has 100 newtons forcing down on it which will hold the lamp up which has created this unique form underneath it.





Final Statement

The final prototype is complete and successfully working well with functionality to hold the raspberry pi zero board. It has been a long journey from learning the fusion 360 software through to operation. I am very impressed with the outcome of the design that I have produced. I tried printing the final model in SLA and FDM. Ultimately I have requested Print City to produce the final piece using FDM as I printed the enclosure in SLA and had numerous issues with the resin being stuck inside which then made the resin hard and the walls cracked and deformed. The model is printed by Print City is in yellow PLA plastic.

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My design background started in Graphic design so I have never done any serious work in fusion 360. This is the first time I have had the chance to trial fusion 360 with the designing of this enclosure unit. Starting with the sketch tool that is basically an aid for drawing the model that can then be pulled up into a 3d model. This is a significant help because the model can be edited in the later stages. This was of particular benefit as I encountered many issues with the sliding lid but I was able to go back on numerous occasions and edit the measurements.


I have not used fusion 360 in such a complex design before this project, so I have learnt a lot. The last time I used it was to create a simple box design with a letter on the side similar to dice. I found learning Fusion tricky as having used 3D Builder this was a completely new learning process Some of the newer design features I learnt included fillet and chamfer. I also had a few major challenges throughout the design process using Fusion. One of the recurring issues was that I could not simply merge the layers together, like Illustrator. After a lengthy investigation, I found the tool Combined and this was able to combine two bodies into one. Initially, it combined into one body putting it into a component which was a folder on its own and not what I wanted. I had wanted the two bodies to merge. When I researched the outcome I wanted I realised I needed to combine the original body with the new body. There are many tools and features inside Fusion that I am yet to test out and I am looking forward to exploring its functionality further.  

I had a few issues while designing the raspberry pi zero board. One of these was that the sliding rails on the side of the print were meant to be 0.5mm thick but each time it printed they were 1mm thick. Every time I edited this and printed it, it would always come out the same size, 1mm thick. After a few attempts at editing the design, I finally worked out that the sketch file was not editing the original sketch so I was editing something that was on hiding so I wasted a couple of prints due to this issue.


As well as the designing it was nice to finally be printing some of my own work and being able to test these out on the Raspberry Pi Zero board that I bought to test with the mounting and to see what needed to be measured and what did not fit so need to be remodelled.  

Learning the drawing element was great as I was able to put pen to paper and use my skills to get an idea of what I wanted to create before wasting my time doing the design. At the start, I had a few issues using the sketch draw app particularly understanding how it worked with the perspective modes as you can be drawing a line that is meant to follow another line but it goes a different way.


Overall I am very happy with the board enclosure but next time I would change a few things in the design, such as the sliding rails. I would add in a slot so that it snapped into place to give it more security, as well as stopping the tray from coming out when being transported. I would also make the grips on the side knurling grips to make sure that you can get more pull on the lid. The overall design clipped together really well and was easy to access the board quickly in case of an issue.

I also enjoyed blogging about the different parts that I designed and made for the enclosure as each bit was different. One of the main things about blogging was making sure I added in everything that I changed or created. It is also helpful in terms of looking back at the features I made and providing a record of the project.

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Printcity Final Piece

Here is the final piece that was created for the Raspberry Pi Zero Printcity have printed this out in yellow PLA. The overall looks and feels seems to be good quality but there are a few issues with the prints. 

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(Final render of the enclosure)


As you can see the final print out isn't the best. 


Basic to almost professional

When I first started off using fusion 360 I wasn't the best didn't know what any of the tools did and I created the first Raspberry Pi Zero case which was taken from the iPhones bumper cases the concept was for the board to have a bumper case which if dropped would bounce off the floor to protect the board from breaking. Many sessions of fusion 360 showed me new ways of creating newer and better layouts as well as many tools that can be used for my final product. Most of the tools used for the current case I had never used heard of such as Fillet, chamfer and shell these tools helped develop and increase my skill within fusion 360. 

I used a range of tools and modifications for the new case and all in total there were over 30+ changes to the case as I wanted it to handle as well as perform well under stress. The case has many air vents for hot air to vent and the cooler air to come into the case. The case has many small benefits for easy excess I wanted to create a Knurling effect on the side which would help to pull open the box. 

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Here is a video of the case working.

Print city's turn

Final day before submission and I had to send off the files to be printed by print city the overall look from the printing looks great and the final modifications really worked great for the sliding panels. The detail of the printing works really well with the model as the board can be secured well into place with the sides holding it down this was added in shortly after testing how the board was upside down. The access with the portholes works great as they are a good size for the cables to go into and also not nag while in there. I now need to go back to print city to collect the new print to remove the supports from the model to make it ready for submission. 


Resin Final

Since my last post about starting in SLA the model has finally finished and has been cured and works a treat! The issue with the sliding rails I've having with FDM and them not lining up to slide is gone as it just glides on and off the rail. The overall print quality is amazingly better than FDM with no layer lines involved and all the details in tack. 


Midway through the print, I wanted to see how it was doing so I stopped to take a look and was blown away with the little details it does within the model. The blue makes the model look amazing and stands out from the crowd. 



I think the resin looks amazing but it is still a very messy job to do but the overall design and cleanness of the model make it worth its time to do. 

After cleaning and curing the print I did a test fit to see if the board sat well within the model as well as any issues that it may have and needs to be changed. One of the issues I came across was the drain hole on the front it kept pouring out resin that had been unset inside as well as that I also had an issue with the side of the board I hadn't made a secure point to keep it down as the other side. 




Resin Printing Started

So today I have set up the resin printer for the lid and base to be printed to slicer (chitubox) recommend that it would take 6 and half hours to print. The model will be printed in blue resin which will make a good shine and also stand out to the customer. 


The setting used for this printed is displayed on this image below these have been edited for the best which is what generates the long hours. Since the last update with starting the slicing for the print, I have changed to 0.055mm layer height this was for more fast prototyping. 

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Resin Printing

So I've decided to take the plunge and try out this box in resin. So the case will take 6hours to create at 0.025mm layer height I'm hoping once this is complete the box will look great and clip together much better than PLA on FDM. 
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Adding more features

So one of the new features that I have added is the finger grips this is to help solve the issues I have been having where I was unable to open the lid due to the sliders being stuck. 


As you can see from the picture above the fingers are able to grip onto the side of the case. When the case and lid are attached this would be the correct way to remove them.

I am having issues with the front of the case as the design is in the correct area for 2 fingers but sadly there isn't enough space to be gripped onto for them to hold the force to open. 

Another feature that has been added was to hold the board down to stop it from moving when being placed upside down sadly this didn't work due to the other side not having the same sort of style. The next update I will design some type of top holder which will keep the board in place and have easier access to the ports.


One of the main issues I've been having with this box is the sliding part. The main issue has been trying to make it have less force to push it in as I want it to go in like butter as well as having a stronghold.


The new enclosure unit uses less of a wall to save print time but all so has more infill so that it doesn't break off. 


After having many issues with the past couple of enclosures I decided to take my skills and look into a new style with creating a new and easier case with access parts as well as grips for fingers to open the case. 



With the design above I have created an extra millimetre on the sides to make sure the cables can access the ports without any movements and issues with the cables getting caught on the sides.


This side of the case has been made with many side vents for the air to flow throughout the case as well as the board can be seen from the outside which gives a good feature. The next step for these vents will be to add some type of transparent filament to give it some looks. 

Added bonces have been added inside to stop the board from moving I have created some overlaps on the ports. These will hopefully stop the board from moving out of place when upside down. 

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Enclosure Has Printed But!

So I printed the enclosure unit out with the Prusa Mk3s the print was great came out amazing with the settings and time I had for this. I selected 0.3 layer height no supports were needed for this and I was able to print in 1hour and 25mins. The print itself looks really good quality with the open-air vents I created. 


The model was created and printed but sadly the board didn't fit once again on the print I have since changed as the pin would fit but the length of the model wasn't long enough for the others. The image below shows that the top two pins are in place but the bottom can't be pushed in since the model isn't long enough for them. 


As well as testing many prints to get the tolerances right for the sliding part I also testing the holes made for the ports. The style I was looking for was grill effects where the sides would have open parts for more airflow so that the board can breathe and not cause issues. 

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Testing the new design!

So I've been designing away and I've had many issues with the design I have been making ranging from the sizes of the sliders to the board. Let's start off with the issues with the board, the base of the model for the board was printed with the correct sizes take once printed due to the print settings there were extra walls added into the whole shape which made the board not fit on the holders. That was the first issue which needed to be sorted. 


After fixing that issue I was met with another one! which was that the lid of the unit wouldn't slide into place on the bed that holds the board it was very tight for the sliders and resulted in being snapped into place rather than it sliding in. 


The print was easy to make took around 30minutes printed on 2 machines that I own. One was a Craftbot Plus Pro and the other was a Prusa MK3s comparing the quality and printing I will be sticking to the Prusa as it was able to finish the print in a more professional way.

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Learning to draw

Today was all about how to draw again with Jason Condliffe who is a program leader of product design & design engineering at MMU. With in the session, we were quickly shown how to draw in a more professional and creative way for engineering needs. Starting off with a pen and paper to learn how to draw lines and angles in the correct way. 

Once we all got to grips with the basics of learning to draw a line we then got advanced onto vanishing points and lines where we could use these to create boxes that would look the part instead of creating these as normal in a 2D style.


After being let loose from the drawings I started to create the enclosure design for the Raspberry Pie Zero, I started off with a box and transformed it into a simple enclosure that I hope to take into fusion 360. 

Door Handle Issue

So my workshop door has to be shut after each entry into the workshop and people come inside and can't close the door, So to fix the issue I modelled up a door handle big enough to have a good grip and to fit the door. 
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Raspberry Pi Zero Board Case

First started out looking across the internet for a Raspberry Pi Zero Board, I came across the files to be used for the board. I then continued into searching for other style and designed for a case to protects the sides of the Pi. The design reminds me of an iPhone 4s which its small and block style design.20142F092F252Ff72FiPhone4s0165862jpg2F950x534__filters3Aquality288029jpg

While the design of the iPhone was very big I wanted to create something that would protect the bumpers around the board so I came up with this idea with some inspiration from this case.

I continued to create this style into the Raspberry Pi Zero Board and made this.


Business Card Holder

So as a business owner I have many cards for different accounts. Many other company owners will say the same! While I was working from home I couldn't find the latest card for one of my payments but I was able to find 50 other cards. I decided I needed to change this so I got the dimensions of a card which was 55mm by 86mm.

Took my time and created a business card holder which could keep up to 50+ cards in the holder and since this I haven't had an issue with finding cards.


Raspberry Pi Zero Board

Raspberry Pi Zero Board Layout

We have been set the task to create an enclosure for the Raspberry Pi zero board. 

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My first thoughts of when getting the board are that the product is very small and can be easily lost on a desk. Looking around at other style enclosures I have found a very basic case called Adafruit. Adafruit-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-Casejpg

This design works really great as you can see the components inside of the case which is better for a visual operator. I think I will use this while going ahead with my design. 
Fusion 360 Tea Pot Challenge

The idea was to redesign the Utah teapot which is an old-style teapot that gets used for modern style rendering. Utah_teapot_simple_2png

The challenge was set to recreate a teapot with a fresh set of rendered colours. my idea was to create the same shape model but with a funkier nozzle for the tea to come out of. The render colours used for this teapot was carbon fibre. 

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